My Exchange at Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado
Putting my exchange experience into words has been difficult. I’ve attempted multiple times to write about my journey… through the metaphor of a stormy day on a planned summers picnic, to a five senses experience of Brazil’s complex culture, language and people. From exploring the heartfelt stories of the teachers at Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado (the university I attended), to historical prose, mapping São Paulo’s vast network of vibrantly packed neighbourhoods. I’ve even written love letters to the bus in an attempt to explain my journey. None of it has captured my experience in the way I want it to, yet all of it tells the story.
What I’ve come to realise is that not every taste, smell, thought and feeling can be imparted onto the reader. Some moments remain distinguished in memory only, like the deep and meaningful conversations I had with Douglas, the dinner I had around the table with my host family, the Brazilian food I learned to cook with my class – the essence of my time there.
And perhaps that is the beauty of an exchange. I get to keep these moments for myself. Try as I might to recount ardently all that occurred, only I can carry the depth and detail of my experiences. That’s what makes it worth it.
The Journey
The near twenty-hour journey to my host country was exhausting – I caught two planes. The first was an eleven-hour flight to Santiago, Chile. There, I waited four hours for my next flight to São Paulo, Brazil, a four-hour flight. With almost no sleep since I left Auckland, my eyes drooped and my body sunk into the chair of my final plane, but I couldn’t drift off. I was only a few hours away from landing in a new home. I caught first glimpse of the city as the plane neared land, and I was ecstatic. I was by myself, about to explore another planet of wonder and excitement.
“Oi, prazer!”
being a university exchange student
Fast forward a few days, and I was beginning to understand why my partner Clarice had such reverence for her home country. Colours and culture exuded itself everywhere. Graffiti and mural covered the city walls, music blared down the street for carnival, and people sung their language more than they spoke it.
When university started, I discovered that all my courses were taught in Portuguese. No English. I didn’t remember signing up for this! At first this was a big challenge for me, and a risky one too. What if I failed everything? Fortunately, I had prepared a lot before arriving, and I trusted that I could learn the language fast enough to excel in my courses.
About a month or two into university, I felt an ease to classes. Where I had once struggled to gain an understanding of the content, I was now absorbing it and forming opinions in the language. This is not to say that it was easy, I took conscious effort before arriving and during my exchange to be immersed in the language in every way. I read books in Portuguese, listened to music in Portuguese, studied grammar, and only used English/a translator in dire situations. Thankfully, these efforts meant that I could soak up Brazil and its education to the fullest, visiting non for profits to connect with impoverished kids, taking immersive cooking classes, and presenting Brazilian news updates to a class in Portuguese.
A dollar for a dime
Living in Brazil with New Zealand currency is cheap. Almost everything is half the cost – food, transport, clothing, travel. This meant I could experience a lot, and treat myself, and I did! I took busses to different cities, ate out frequently at restaurants, and even splurged on Ubers. I got to experience culinary masterpieces; Acarajé was my favourite – a richly flavoured, spicy street food (which is cheap anyway)
Once my semester had finished, I flew up to the northeast to see my partner and her family. I visited the big and the small – Recife, Monteiro, Piranhas, Aracaju, Salvador. Each place held its own unique history, accent, food, and culture. And still, they all shared the single soul of Brazil. Knowing that I could spread my money further meant having the courage and accessibility to travel and experience more.
Monteiro e fámilia
The most special part of my trip was seeing where Clarice grew up. Afterall, my journey to Brazil only happened because I had met her two years earlier. Before I even arrived, she had introduced me to the oasis of ‘cultura brasiliera e a lingua portuguesa’. This was different to diving in headfirst alone – I was blessed with a personal vault of Brazil’s stories, history, and memories through Clarice.
For this reason, visiting her hometown, Monteiro, was easily the highlight of my trip. I stayed under one roof with her family. I met her papai for the first time, and her older and younger sisters. They became my family too. I met her childhood friends, the people she holds closest to her heart. They became my friends too. I got to see the side to her I had only heard about through stories, and comprehend it, because I could understand the language now, the culture, the land – in a place closer to my heart than my head.
Tchau
Saying goodbye was tougher than I imagined it would be. I had found another home.
Clarice’s little sister is now my irmãzinha too. The friends I made are brothers from other mothers, and sisters from other misters. At my host university, I consider Clenir – my professor for Portuguese – my vó.
Guarani, the indigenous peoples of São Paulo have shaped my identity and understanding of Māori, and what it means to be indigenous myself. The land they showed me is connected now to my own whenua. Brazil is whanaunga, and I feel intense saudade.
The cool thing about an exchange is that while you physically return to where you came from, you remain connected through the relationships and experiences you made along the way. I know that if I ever return to Brazil (planning to already), I will have loving people provide me food, shelter, good company… and a trip back to university.
Q&A
What were some of the highlights of the academic experience at your host university?
- The connections I made with my professors.
- Due to the classes at FAAP being small, I had the opportunity to build meaningful relationships with each of my teachers. I shared many special moments, specifically with my professor Clenir who supported me like one of her own when I went through a few tough times.
- As well as this, the learning itself was rewarding. Although I scored average on my mid semester exam, I studied extensively to do better on the final exam and received half a mark short of a perfect score.
- Lastly, the out of class experiences were incredible. I learned how to cook Brazilian food, visited non for profits that uplifted struggling communities, and engaged in cross cultural dialogue with the Indigenous people of Guarani at Jaraguá.
- For example, one of the non-profits we visited was ABCD Nossa Casa, a foundation that looks after children from impoverished families in São Paulo. They work hard to give as many souls as they can quality education and food so that they may thrive. These opportunities allow kids like Leão – my little brother from the foundation – to step out of the environments that could otherwise hold him back and find what brings him joy in life.
- The hard work I put into learning Portuguese, the cultural engagement I was given the opportunity to involve myself in, and the special connections I made with my professors are what developed my academic experiences into fulfilling and worthwhile pursuits.
Would you recommend any particular activity/activities unique to your host country or university?
To any future exchange students travelling to Brazil/FAAP, I recommend you step out of your comfort zone and take classes in Portuguese with Brazilian students.
While you can and should (if needed) take the courses for foreign students in English, take Brazilian university classes too. I encourage you to take courses like Poéticas Visuais – which is a visual and written exploration of São Paulo’s landscapes, architecture, people, and social complexities (think homelessness, public transport, city layout, etc.) – or fotografia, a photography course. These classes, while taught in Portuguese, allow you to express yourself through artistic medians, meaning you can get by without being fluent. Additionally, you’re upskilling yourself and learning to academically express yourself in another language! I think that’s priceless.
I would especially recommend the intensive Portuguese courses. They delve deep into the culture and language and even take you outside the university. During my time, my class took field trips to multiple non-profit organisations in São Paulo. On one trip, we visited a foundation that teaches older Brazilians (that grew up without literacy) how to read and write. We got to engage with them by sharing our goals for the future and vulnerably read aloud our written Portuguese. These experiences are immensely fulfilling and something you don’t get with the courses taught in English.
Lastly, if you are in Brazil, you must go beyond São Paulo. Join the São João festivals in the northeast, explore the Amazon rainforest, stand under the thundering Iguaçu falls on the southern border. There is so much to see and do! Join a dance class, teach yourself how to cook Brazilian food. Anything that entices feelings of excitement (or even anxiety) are thrills waiting to be experienced. Don’t hold yourself back from any opportunity that could deepen the gamma of life, because good or bad, it will, and that is something worth doing.
What are your top 3 tips for future students attending your host university or going on exchange to your host country?
- Approach people with curiosity and intent… and if you want to talk to someone, talk to them! Don’t shy away from interaction, say yes to people. I guarantee you’ll find friends for life this way.
- Get to know your teachers. I can’t stress this one enough. They are your friends with immense experience in life; you can learn a lot from them. Treat them kindly and you’ll be given so much in return.
- Learn Portuguese!!! Start before you leave. Watch YouTube and Netflix, read children’s books, listen to Brazilian music. All of it will help. Having even a basic understanding of the language will unlock another world to explore. You’ll make deeper connections with locals, build the culture within you, and have access to opportunities you wouldn’t believe. Even simple activities like going to the movies are wildly more accessible when you speak and understand Portuguese.
How much did you budget for your exchange? Was this enough? Were there any lessons learned that would help future students budget for their own exchange?
Excluding the cost of flights, I think I had around 6 thousand dollars.
Accommodation:
The first two months I stayed with a host family that let me board for free, and then I spent 2 grand on renting apartments (Airbnb) for the following 4 months.
If your budget is tight, reach out to people in Brazil on WhatsApp or through the internet. You can rent for cheaper if you dig deeper on local websites or stay with a family. Doing this will save you around a grand, but keep in mind your transport costs could rise; depending on where you live.
If you have some extra cash, stay at the accommodation ISEP provides (Share). You get to stay in an apartment with other international and national students. Some buildings even have a rooftop and pool. It’s a really good way to get to know people if you struggle to make friends or if you’re a sociable person. Staying at Share usually places you closer to the Uni as well, making the transition period easier. The only downside is it is costly.
Food:
I allowed myself to be generous. I ate out frequently, but I also cooked. I would keep a balance between the two by limiting eating out to when you are with friends and occasionally by yourself. I probably spent 1 grand on food (maybe 2).
Travel:
This is where you need to budget the most. If you want to travel, you need a good chunk of money for flights, busses, food, and souvenirs (if you want them). I would recommend 2 thousand dollars, but if you’re tight with your budget, 1 thousand will give you plenty of opportunity for adventure.
Transport:
In São Paulo, there are four main modes of transport you will use.
- Walking – One of the best ways to explore, albeit you need to remain aware of your surroundings, especially at night.
- Bus – Will get you between suburbs, and cost very little to use. Need cash or a CPF to get a card.
- Trains – Convenient and cheap, use depends on where you are.
- Uber – Much cheaper in Brazil. Average cost of $5-$15. Good for keeping yourself safe.
What are your most significant takeaways from your experience abroad?
My own capabilities:
Coming back from exchange, I am more confident in my ability to overcome challenges. Whereas prior to exchange I would stop before I’d even tried, full of doubt, I now work at a problem until I crack it. All the moments where I had to problem solve – losing my passport, getting stuck in a city outside of São Paulo, having no internet and no map to get back to my apartment – pushed me to solve problems creatively, using whatever I had available to me. This has shifted my mindset towards life; I don’t need everything I thought I did to survive. I can get by with just myself, and I am so much more grateful as a result.
The importance of failure:
I’m not as afraid to put myself out there or fail in front of others. This is in part due to learning Portuguese. Having no other option but to express myself in a foreign language meant failing repeatedly, and through this experience, I understood the importance of failure in growing. Getting things wrong and continuing to try grew my speaking ability exponentially, and similar are all things in life. Walking this journey reframed failure as something positive rather than negative.
Do you want to share anything about travels you did outside your host city/country?
I went on a road trip in the Northeast with Clarice’s dad, his partner, and her daughter. We drove through tiny towns that I had never heard of, and I saw the most beautiful scenery, culture, and people of my life.
I also solo travelled outside of São Paulo in the south. Once again, to smaller towns that are not well-known. It was adventurous and fulfilling for my soul. I had time to be with myself and find who I am as an individual. I encourage others to do the same if they have the opportunity.
Final advice for future students?
Don’t be yourself!
– This may sound odd, but don’t listen to people that tell you to be yourself, no matter how well-intentioned they may be.
Be the person you dream of becoming instead:
– Living abroad allows you to experiment with your character, your personality, your habits.
– Take the opportunity to be a better you.
Be open
With your emotions:
– Cry when you need to, smile big, talk with enthusiasm.
With others:
– Greet people enthusiastically and without judgement and stand up when you do.
Be curious
About others:
– You never know who you might connect with.
– You may never see the people you meet again.
About the environment:
– Learn the history,
– Meet the local and/or indigenous communities,
– Go for walks,
– Take your shoes off where there is grass,
– Bathe in the weather – sun, rain, wind, and storm,
– Explore every nook of your neighbourhood and city.
Get to know your teachers!
They are jewels… full of wisdom.
Reach out!
If you’re sad or upset or struggling:
– Contact your professors,
– Contact the uni staff/guides that are looking after you or first greeted you,
– Contact your family.
Drop your ego:
– Text people and make plans – even if you just met them,
– Don’t take things personally,
– Let things go – holding onto negative emotions will sabotage your exchange.
Enjoy Exchange
– Be proud of yourself for getting there,
– Don’t take everything too seriously,
– Have fun!